JAM #3 finished

This jacket is definitely spring!  Here's the pics.

The camera sees it as being rumpled, but in my eyes, it is not.  It's a camera thing!

Now, to make gray pants and a gray shell to wear with it!

JAM #3 In Progress

If you've been following the JAM at Stitcher's Guild, you know there are a lot of beautiful jackets posted already, and this is only the end of February.  Those gals are focused and sewing marathons!

I've worked up the pattern for my JAM #3.  It is an OOP pattern, S2107.  I'm using a soft, pretty yellow poly/rayon fabric, and a tone-on-tone silky for the lining.  And, here it is.

Even though there's another good six weeks left of wintry type weather, I'm going to sew something for spring. Right now.  Doesn't hurt to get a head- start on the next season, especially when one sews at a snail's pace. 

By the way, there's a  new book on the block.  If you like the "Built by Wendy" books, she has a new release.  It's "Coats and Jackets"

I looked this book over at the bookstore.  There are three patterns included:  patterns are for a fitted jacket, a boxy jacket with a raglan sleeve, and a coat.  She shows a lot of ways to change those patterns up to make several versions of each pattern.  I may buy it.  It's worth taking a look.



S3786

Here's my finished Simplicity tunic.

I love this pattern!  I first saw it on Gigi's blog.    Mine is made from rayon, very soft and drapey.  It's comfortable and easy to wear.   There are small tucks on either side of center front, from the Mandarin collar to just under the bust.  Note to those who don't want the "preggy" look-this top does not do that.  There is minimal fullness over the tummy from the released tucks--not gobs of gathered fabric like some patterns.  It is good.  Whether it works for large-busted gals, I don't know. 

I made a couple of changes to the pattern.  I re-shaped the Mandarin collar at the CF to make it easier to set in.   I made a 3/4 length sleeve, gathered at the hem and cuffed.  (There's a really cute version with a full lower sleeve that I will make next time).  The reviews indicated the sleeve is snug, which it was on me, so I made a bicep alteration, but that's usual for me.  The back is supposed to have a little gathered casing like this.

But, I don't need fabric to be gathered over my butt, so I omitted that and instead, made a couple of vertical darts.  I will make this again, and yet again, especially for fall/winter.  It's a winner!

Another happy thing happened to me this weekend.  While DH and I were out and about, he dropped me at Barnes and Noble while he went in search of whatever at the hardware.  When he came into the bookstore to get me, he found me fondling the Nook. 

 He insisted on getting it for me, and I didn't want to hurt his feelings by turning it down!  So, I walked out of the store with her and of course, a pink case to clothe her!  We have already become good friends.  The first novel I have downloaded is AVintageAffair by Isabel Wolff.  Appropriate, I thought!   It's chocked full of wonderful Couture designer names, and I am loving the story.

As for a name for my e-reader--I can't think of but one.  Ahem, all I can say is --I got a little Nookie!  Ha!

If You're Looking For Black/White Stripe Knit

TheFabricFairy has it as of this morning.  I had a piece on pre-order.

It was in today's mail.  It's a cotton Interlock by Michael Miller--1/2" stripes.  Very good quality.  It has some heft to it--not wimpy.   Black/white striped knit has been difficult to find this year.  Mine will be a simple Tshirt.

I'm making this Simplicity pattern from a blue rayon print.

I'm ready to set in the sleeves.  Loving this pattern, and I'm anxious to finish it.  Maybe today!

A Done Deal

I finished the red duster.  It is exactly what I envisioned.  Although it's too warm to wear it now, it will be perfect for fall.  Yes, I said FALL!  It is inevitable.

And back:

I used an old TNT shirt pattern, and made the following changes: 

1.  Lengthened and A-lined to calf-length.

2.  Added breast pockets with white top-stitching.

3.  Made a cuffed sleeve with tab

4.  Added a back yoke, with tab and white top-stitching.

The seams are Hong Kong finished and bound armholes, and lace tape on the hem.

Next, I'm working on a tunic or blouse.  Maybe this.

New Simplicity patterns are up on their website.  I don't see anything particularly exceptional.  Still, it's always worth a look, and you talented people make a rather plain looking pattern into something spectacular!

Happy 4th! 

CJ Inset Jacket & S3684

It has been a glorious weekend so far, and still one day to go. Yesterday, I got my housework done, so everything is clean for the week. I also spent some time doing kitchen duty--preparing food for a couple of days. My husband is diabetic and a heart patient. I am a vegetarian on a diet. It's a bit of logistics to weigh and measure all of our food and then count carbs, fat grams, proteins, calories and Weight Watchers points!

This morning I went for a 3-mile walk, which I do every day, and had time to go to my sewing room.

I finished the CJ Patterns Inset Jacket. I've made it before, and enjoy it's swingy, casual style. This fabric is a basket-weave, loosely woven navy.

There are pleats on the lower front, and lower back. Sometime, I am going to redraft the pattern, and make a set-in sleeve, replacing the dropped sleeve.

Here is a blouse I made a while ago. Simplicity 3684.

The fabric is yellow cotton, trimmed with a narrow, gathered lace. I really like this blouse, and will make it again, and soon.

OK, I'm going to ditch the white pants! After tomorrow. Maybe.

Have a great holiday!

Patterns, Please

Not to let a pattern sale pass, after church I went to Jo's and bought a few McCalls and one Vogue pattern. After all, this is the last day of the sale!



Vogue1066 is that great pant pattern from Badgley Mischka that a couple of people have made recently. Tabs, decorative belt loops and channel stitched waistband set these pants apart from the ordinary. Doncha' just love Badgley Mischka?


M5894 is the latest of Palmer/Pletsch jeans patterns.
M5592is a flared leg jean pattern. I like the cropped length version. It seems I am trying to collect every jean pattern out there!


M56161 Palmer/Pletsch top pattern. Good tops to wear under suits. M5929 is a new blouse pattern. It features ruffles down the fronts, but what I especially like is the "v"neckline with a collar. I like the look of the neckline being open, rather than the standard closing at CF.


Also, I bought a bolt of muslin for all the fittings of these patterns!


And, that's it until the next pattern sale. I have a list of Butterick and Simplicity. Do not show me anything that I have to add to that list!


Hope everyone had a fabulous 4th !

Tucking

My mind wouldn't let me give up on the Coldwater Creek shirt. I kept going back to the website, looking at it. I was determined to fix the problem, so I made a couple of different samples, and came up with one that looks exactly as I envisioned.

I reduced the tuck width from 3/8" to 1/4", and decreased the space between them also. I stitched across them as before, with 2 lines of stitching, and spacing the stitching at 4" intervals. Perfect! Here's a photo:

Here's a photo of how the tucks will release at the waistline, forming soft folds:

These are much better than my last sample. These will work.

I'm using S3684. The 3/4 length sleeves on one of the versions has 32 pleats at the hemline of the sleeve, and has cuffs. That will coordinate with the tucks on the fronts of the bodice.

With a page of notes, I'm ready to start working on the pattern. Sometimes, it just takes a while to let your mind get around an idea!

The Great White Shirt

I joined the above sew along at PR. I had scoured the Internet, looking for embellishment ideas for white shirts. I found one shirt at Coldwater Creek that I liked. It had wavy tucks down the fronts. Wavy tucks, or Mexican tucks--whatever one calls them, are tucks that are stitched across, then reversed direction and stitched down the opposite way at 3-4" apart.

The tucks on the Coldwater shirt appear to be 3/8" wide, approximately, with a little space in between. The wavy tucks are released at the waist, so there's a bit of fullness underneath.

Here's the photo.

Sometimes, the best laid plans--!! I made a sample of this technique, and while it is very much like the photo at CC, I don't like it. It just isn't making me happy. Maybe if made into a
garment, it would look like I had it pictured.

So, it's back to the drawing board.

I have a lot of shirt patterns. I mean--a lot! And still, I continue to buy them, as if I were going to make all of them! I narrowed it down to 3 patterns for the sew-along:

Two are Palmer/Pletsch--M3284 and M5630. The other is S3684. I've made all of them previously. I'm leaning toward the Simplicity pattern. I made the version with the yoke in yellow cotton. I have a white tone-on-tone cotton that would work up nicely in the same pattern. Although I like feminine blouses, I also like "boy" type shirts, traditional with back yoke, front placket and collar/band.

Whatever--I want to get going on something. For some reason, I've been stymied on this project. I dunno why. Just because. I haven't been able to get my head into it--yet.

Here are the patterns I bought at the last Jo's Simplicity sale:

S2807 is a Runway blouse pattern, with a lot of variations. Very nice for a feminine top. S2612 is another Runway pattern, skirt and top. S2594 is a top with neckline variations, one being a cowl that I like.

There are 2 pants patterns, called "Amazing Fit". S2860 and S2562 have variations for slim, regular and curvy fit. I think that is an absolutely GREAT idea. Hooray for Simplicity! Guess which fit I am? Humm?

I will think about the white shirt some more. I have several patterns fit, so it shouldn't be such a big deal. Choose something and sew for goodness sake! Quit procrastinating. Make a decision. Shees!

Simplicity 2701 In The Closet

I finished this jacket for my daughter, and here it is on her.

The jacket turned out well. No problems. I did take 1/2" off the sleeve cap. The sleeves were lengthened to the wrist. Added black lining. Although the fabric looks orange, it's actually a very lipstick red. It's a poly/rayon linen-look fabric ordered from Hancock. The fabric washed and dried nicely, and it doesn't wrinkle badly, which is great for a mom with 2 very small boys.

S2701 is a Runway pattern. Directions seem to be more detailed than many. The pattern has Princess seams in front, and a pleat a CB, with a tab/button at the top. Inseam pockets with flaps. I made the "V" neck version with a collar. Loop/button closure.

It's an easy-fit, just skimming the body.

Sharon made this jacket in white. After I saw hers, I bought the pattern. I will make it for myself sometime.

I don't know what's next on the cutting table-maybe start something for the "Great White Shirt Sew Along at PR. I have a lot of shirt patterns and a few pieces of white fabric. A girl can never have too many white shirts.

I'm definitely staying in today and enjoy the air conditioning. Way too hot and humid outside.

Have a great day!

Fabric and Patterns

What could be better? While I'm waiting on the red fabric to arrive for DD's jacket, I added a bit to my stash. As much as I complain about Jo's fabric selection, it's the only store within 60 miles of where I live, so I am forced to go there. Otherwise, I order online.

And, regardless of my complaints, I usually find a piece of fabric or two that make their way into my cart. Such was the case today.




The 3 bottom fabrics are from Jo's. There's a navy stripe rayon blend for a jacket and pants to match, a white poly and a navy for easy peasy throw-on type jackets, such as the CJ Inset Jacket. The rust colored floral at the top is rayon/lycra from Gorgeous Fabrics, and the poly/lycra leopard print is from Hancocks. All except the white are for fall garments.



I've been searching the pattern companies for a basic shell to wear under a suit jacket. I have a pattern for myself that I drafted, but really, I don't like drafting. I like to start with a pattern, and redesign it. There are very few basic little shell patterns. I bought 2 today. Barb posted about this Simplicity pattern. I had seen it when pattern looking online, but assumed it was a knit T, and skimmed right past it. Pays to actually read the description sometimes!

Between these two patterns, there are a lot of options. S8523 has a bust dart, and neckline variations, with or without sleeves. M2818 has a princess seam, front and back, neckline variations, with or without sleeves. The McCall pattern buttons down the back, which I love, and of course, could apply to the Simplicity pattern as well.

The jacket I'm going to make has a "v" shape neckline with a collar. I think a jewel neckline would look nice for the top that will be worn under that particular jacket. Anyway, I was tickled to get both of these patterns. No drafting. I can change these up however I want. Yay!

T-shirts Revisited

Last week, I got zero sewing done. I was out of the house a lot and busy. One day I went to Creative Clothing Club, which is always fun. This month, there was a group of ladies who presented a fashion show of cruise-wear. They made and modeled everything from shorts to evening dresses. There was an announcer, background music, and they built a runway. A lot of work went into that, and we all enjoyed it. As always, I came away inspired to sew some of the garments I saw.

Friday night, my little grandsons spent the night with us. My DH and I took them out to dinner and toy shopping afterward. They sat up at the table like little men, and were really good when we were shopping. Extremely well behaved for a 2 year old and 10 month old. Am I biased? Nahhhh!

Here is a cardigan I made from my TShirt pattern.

I really like this cardigan. It's a ribbed cotton knit -a perfect weight for summer, when you need a little something in the air-conditioning. To make the pattern, I added 2" in width and length to my T-shirt pattern. Lengthened the sleeves. I measured down the CF to where I wanted a "v"neckline, and cut out that shape. Then, split the pattern up the CF. That's it. Easy.

There's a 2" hem, interfaced with fusible knit interfacing, so that it has a bit of weight and hangs nicely, and a twin needle top-stitched hem. Same with the sleeve hems. The CFs and neckline are bound. Ties at CF for closures. I have this cardigan in yellow also. And, I'd like to have one in black and navy when I find the right fabric.

Here are the the Tshirts I made recently. I have to take a little shopping trip to http://www.thefabricfairy.com/ for more cotton knits.

Meanwhile, I'm going to work up a muslin of S2701 for my daughter. It will be the version with the collar, welt pockets and long sleeves. The back has a yoke with a pleat at CB. The pattern doesn't call for a lining, but this jacket will have one . Right now, I don't have fabric in mind, so will check my stash and/or go fabric shopping.

Sharon made this in white, and it was just beautiful.

I'm off to my sewing room now. Have a great Monday everyone!

S2703

Here's my finished jacket. Do I look like a stop-light? Stand me in an intersection, and I can direct traffic!

Even with it's brightness, I do like it. I can wear it with black, navy or white. I am working on a 2" beaded covered button to use as a lapel pin.

Does it look like the pattern? Yes. But--I seldom make a garment following the pattern to a "t". Here's the changes I made to this pattern:

1. I added 1/2" to the bottom of the hems of the side fronts, back and side backs. The pattern has a 1 1/2" hem, and I prefer a 2" hem in a tailored jacket.
2. Sleeves were shortened to become 3/4 length.
3. Changed the lower bodice facing. The pattern has a gathered lower bodice. The facing piece is the same. That's too much bulk. I made a flat pattern piece for the facing.
4. My fabric was wimpy, so I underlined it with batiste.
5. I taped the front neckline, all the way to the waist to prevent stretching.
6. I added sleeve heads and shoulder pads, and made an adjustment on the shoulder to accomodate the pads.
7. The pattern doesn't include lining, but I did line mine.
8. I didn't attempt a buttonhole at the waistline because of the narrow midriff set-in piece. I knew it would be trouble. Instead, I used a sturdy snap and sewed on a non-working button.

I had no problems with this jacket until I got to the snap. I sewed it on incorrectly, reversing the male/female parts. Not once, but twice! Has anyone seen my mind? I've been sewing on snaps for 50 years. Suddenly it's a big chore!

And that's the end of this saga.

Patterns Please

I had a dental appointment today. That is one of my least favorite ways to spend time. Even though it was uneventful, I was anxious. My hygienist is gentle and she tries to lessen my uneasiness. Still---

To get rid of the stress, I had to make a trip to Jo's afterward for Simplicity patterns on-sale. This is what I bought: 2701, 2812, 2728, 3833 and 3559.

Sharon made 2701--a retro-inspired jacket. She made hers in a white fabric of unknown fiber. It's delicious.

Seeing patterns made by real people for real people is one of the perks of reading blogs. Line drawings on patterns are so often misleading. Photographs on pattern envelopes are a better representation, but of course, the garments are modeled by--well, models.

The three jacket/coat patterns are inspired by Project Runway (and cannot wait until that show airs again).

The two dress patterns are retro-inspired-both 1960 era. I wore those dresses during those years! The hair and make-up was bizarre, as I think back. Huge hair--bouffant and held with tons of lacquer. Lots of black eyeshadow and liner with wings extending from the outer lashes. White lipstick. Dracula's wife lived. And thought she was so glamorous!

No sewing for a couple of days. I'll get back at it ASAP.

Happy sewing everyone!