The White Jacket in Threads

--the March issue:

is mine!!!  This is the jacket with bias strip insertion panels.

And whose beautiful jacket is on the page right beside me?  Ms.Rhonda Buss!

What a fun Christmas present this is.  Thank you Threads.

Oh, That Jacket!

The iconic Chanel jacket-never goes out of style.  Here she is again in Claire Shaeffer for Vogue 8804.   Three piece sleeve (even though the pattern envelope says it's a 2-piece, it IS a 3 piece.) To accompany that pattern, Claire is writing a six-part series about "THE JACKET", beginning with The June/July issue of Vogue pattern magazine.

The first of the six articles:

She'll be writing about the couture techniques used in creating a couture jacket.

I have my pattern, the first magazine, and will be shopping for appropriate fabric, trim and lining.  This is on my bucket list for fall.  I didn't participate in the Chanel Sew Along a couple of years ago, and I'm looking forward to the challenge.  How about you?  Do you have renewed interest in "That Jacket"

CJ Patterns

I belong to a marvelous sewing club. Every month, 100-150 ladies turn out, and occasionally a man thrown in for good balance! We are all ages, shapes, sizes and opinions about everything. There are professionals, amateurs, business people, housewives, artists. We have a furrier, a few tailors and dressmakers. Those who are skilled are very generous of their knowledge to those who are budding dressmakers. No egos here--just a lot of people who get together and love sewing clothes.



Each month, three or four people are responsible for preparing the program. We've had programs about everything imaginable. Those giving the program study their topic for several weeks, make up samples and give hand-outs about the subject. Occasionally, we have a guest speaker. This month, we had ChristineJonson of CJPatterns. She had a terrific trunk showing of the garments made from her patterns. Her patterns are primarily for knits, although there's a few sized for wovens as well.



Christine's patterns have a lot of instruction, and a sizing chart to calculate size according to different stretch percentages in fabrics. She's a joy to listen to and we learn something every time she's with us.



I have a few of her patterns. Debbie made the "Shirred Top and Princess Wrap", and posted it on her blog recently. She made the "Princess Wrap" view of the pattern. Because I saw it on her site, I had to buy the pattern. This is a really cute top. I would bring the neckline in closer, and redraw the "v", to make it a bit higher. It's a very flattering top on all sizes.


I tried on Christine's "Inset Jacket" at the meeting. Hers was made from a black pique fabric. The pattern runs very large. The small fits me exactly as it should. It's a loose fitting jacket, with great style lines. I already had this pattern, and now that I know what size to make--it will be in the queue. The "Easy Coat" is a simple coat that is perfect for embellishing.


The meeting was inspiring, as always. Thank you, Christine.

Vogue 8090

I grabbed this jacket out of my closet this morning to wear to church. It was cold and windy--typical of our spring weather. I needed something bright and happy.










I lost weight after I made this, and it's a bit large. I'll alter it before I wear it again.

This is a tunic type jacket. I disliked the dropped shoulders on the pattern, so I drafted a new armsythe and sleeve. I added black "flat" piping. (a folded piece of bias fabric, sewn into the seam line without cording). The pattern didn't call for lining. The fabric is a linen-look blend. I underlined it with a thin batiste.


Another change I made to the pattern is adding a cuff to the sleeve. The shape of the cuff imitates the cross over of the front and back.


The black flower pinned to the front was made on my embroidery machine. It's layers of organza, embroidered in petal shapes, then stitched together by hand to form a bloom.


After church, I went pant shopping. Sigh. Every store had the same style pant--dropped waist pant with skinny legs. What happened to pants that come up to one's waistline? I dunno. I want to wear my pants where I always have--on my waist! To get a tailored pant that fits my RTW size 14--it's going to have to come from my sewing room. I did buy a couple pair of elastic waist pants to knock about in.


Shoe shopping was much better. I bought a pair of black patent pumps, and a brown shoe/boot. I'm looking for navy, red and white shoes, which aren't in the stores yet.


I'll etch out some sewing time tomorrow. Yay!

Machine Embroidered Jacket

I've had an embroidery machine for many years. When Bernina introduced its first Deco, I bought it. Still have it. It lives in a closet. Later, I bought a TOL embroidery/sewing machine. Love the machine, but the embroidery side of it I haven't used like I thought I would. That happens sometimes. Just have to have something, then don't use it.

I've had some issues with the machine embroidery explosion that's been going on the last few years. For one thing, it just got done to death. I mean, must every surface have an embroidery on it? I was determined I would not wear Mickey Mouse on my chest, or other "cutesy" type designs that, to me, look ridiculous on a middle aged woman. Of course, this is just one woman's opinion, as witnessed by the number of sweatshirts sprouting Disney characters!

On the other hand, I've seen some tasteful machine embroidery. Some even beautiful. It is a medium that can add another dimension to one's garments or home dec. It's also fun. It's also expensive.

Having said that, here is a black jacket that I made, and heavily embroidered.

This is a jeans jacket pattern, lengthened. The fabric is black linen-look poly, with facings in red of the same fabric line . It's underlined with red lining fabric.

Top-stitching is done in red thread. Red snaps are from Snapsource. Any time I need a snap closure-those are what I use.

The embroidery designs are called "Crystal Florals II" and are from Elsasdesigns. There is embroidery on the front yokes, back yoke, collar, sleeve cuffs, and a tab on the side seam.

Here a detail of the cuffs and side tabs:

It took some time to do this embroidery. I traced an outline of each pattern piece that I wanted to embroider, onto the right side of the fabric. Then, hooped and centered the designs accordingly. After the embroidery was complete, I assembled the jacket.

I was pleased at the end result. But, it's not Mickey Mouse!