Threads #158 had a tutorial by Kenneth King, using what he calls "bias strip insertion". Bias strips are cut and folded, like bias tape, then twisted and sewn into a base panel. That panel is inserted into garment seams.
My Designer group's challengee for this month was to embellish something, using a strip of fabric. That strip could be strip piecing, bias tapes, fabric tubes--whatever, as long as the embellishment began with a strip of fabric. This project was perfect for the challenge. And so it began.
Here's a detail of the bias strip insertion on the front panels and sleeve:
I used this simple OOP Butterick pattern for my base. It has a bust dart and lapel.
This is the journey. Using drawings, this is what my base pattern looked like:
I curved the neckline into a sweetheart shape, and drew in the style lines for the base panel that would hold the bis strip embellishment:
But--uh oh! The design lines went right through the bust dart. So, I shortened the dart, making it touch the design line nearest the point of the original dart:
Then, I cut out the bust dart, slashed the outermost design line to the bust point, and opened the dart. Now, the dart is in the seamline of the panel:
Next, it was a matter of cutting the pattern apart on the style lines, and adding seam allowances.
The panels are 3" wide, finished. I cut bias strips 4 -1/4" wide (3" plus two seam allowances), folded them into a bias tape, pressed them, and sewed them to one raw edge of the panel. Then gave them a twist, and sewed to the other edge of the panel. That panel was then sewn into the garment fronts.
For the sleeves, I used the same technique, but made the bias strips narrower and with spaces between each strip. Originally, I tried to put them touching one another, but that was too full for a small circumference.
The fabric content is unknown. I picked it up off the grab table at one of my sewing clubs. I underlined the jacket with white lining, and made HongKong finishes on the seams, and bound the armholes. For a closure, I used button loops and covered buttons, and put a modesty panel on the button side.
And that's how I did it!
10 months ago