FO Photo

I wore this new short-sleeve jacket today.  It's casual and comfortable.  I enjoyed wearing it.

It is M5941.  I will make it again, maybe in a suitable spring fabric.

I bought gray lining and gray trim, but I don't know that I'm particularly satisfied with the trim.  Still, I can continue on the jacket as soon as I can get back in my sewing room .  I want the trim to go around the edges of the jacket, and make button loops with covered buttons. 

Waiting for the snow storm to hit MI tomorrow.  I have plenty of sewing lined up if I can't get out!

Progress with Applique Jacket

I finished the applique on the back of the jacket and the sleeve. 

I thought I may run out of the heavy thread I was using to applique.  I had about 3 feet left on the spool!

I'll do some beading on the pieces next, and then start assembling the jacket.  I'll be busy the rest of this week and the weekend, so probably won't get to sew again until next week. 

I'm pleased with how the design has worked out.  The decorative stitching is something different than usual to anchor the applique.  Artsy.  It was fun to work on and I'm anxious to finish the jacket.

Later.

Applique' Away

I had the BEST time today, working on the applique for the front of the felted wool jacket.  The hours passed and I was in the zone. 

This is how I started.  I traced applique' designs to freezer paper.  Ironed the paper to felted wool, and then cut them out.  The freezer paper sticks really well onto felted wool.  Here's some leaves, ready to be cut out.

I hand basted the pieces in place, and then used the Feather stitch  and heavyweight Sulky thread to stitch around the designs.  I added vines and "whatnots".  Here is the front, with the applique' finished.

I will do some beading.  Not a lot, but I'll put a few beads in the flower centers and maybe some on the leaves.  Maybe I'll work on the beading tonight.   My plan is to run the design over the shoulder and let some leaves and a couple of flowers trail down the back.  One sleeve will have some applique on it also. 

I notice that a lot of you hit the latest pattern sale.  I did too.   I didn't buy the new Vogue patterns, although some of them are really nice.  Most are too young for me (alas, but true), and wouldn't fit my lifestyle anyway.  But, I will be reading your blogs and hoping to see some of those fancy dresses on you.  You see, I live a most chic and fun life, vicariously through you!

Here's the patterns I bought.

Carolyn made Vogue8623, and I thought it was so elegant, with it's big collar and pleat in the back.  It has a retro feel to it.  Simplicity will be on sale at Jos the 12th through the 15th.  I'll be there.

More  later.

Playing with Felted Fabrics

A couple of months ago, I took a class in which we felted wool fabrics, and used a "cookie cutter" method of embellishment.  Basically, a hole is cut in the garment fabric, a piece of felted wool the same size and shape is "plugged" into the hole and attached with decorative stitching.

I had my jacket cut out and waiting for  design inspiration (or divine)!  I made some samples of the "cookie cutter" technique.  But, I could never make up my mind that I wanted to cut holes in that jacket.  The gal who taught the class has some fantastic art garments using that technique, and in fact, she won a contest sposored by Threads, using the embellishment.  Still----

Today, I pulled all the fabrics and threads out and decided to applique.  Instantly, a big red flower came to mind.   Years ago, I did a LOT of quilting.  I taught it.  Went to school to become certificed through National Qulting Association to be a quilt show judge.  Baltimore Album quilts became very popular, and I fell in love with them.  They are white backgrounds, with appliqued floral designs.  Very fancy.  In their time, the 1800s, the Victorian ladies of leisure made these time-consuming quilts.

I loved doing hand applique, and started designing Baltimore Album quilt blocks.  Elly Sienkiewicz became an authority on those quilts, studying their history, etc.   I took a couple of classes from her, and showed her the blocks I had designed.  When her first book was published,  she asked to use my quilt blocks in her book, along with the patterns and instructions to make them.  Here's the book, and four of my quilt blocks:

What this has to do with my jacket is--I took the flower from one of the above pictures, enlarged it and am using it for the main flower on this jacket.  On the quilt block, each petal is appliqued separately.  The applique on my jacket is not intricate.  It's more "folksy" with a modern twist.   Here's the first flower, sewn down with a straight stitch.

Looks like a big old blob at this point!  I cut the flower out as one big unit, sewed it down with a straight stitch, and marked with soap the petal lines.  Then, I used a Feather Stitch and with heavy variagated thread, stitched around the flower.  This is where it stands as of now:

I've drawn  some vines with soap, and will make some leaf shapes and applique them .  There will be beads because what's an art-type garment without beads?  I'll probably applique down one sleeve and do something on the back, as well.

I had fun doing this and am anxious to get back to it tomorrow. 

McCall 5941 Almost Done

This jacket is sooo near done.  I decided to put red decorative snaps down the front, but had only two.  I have ordered snaps from SnapSource to finish this cap-sleeve jacket.

The fabric is black/white wool houndstooth.  I made a few changes to the pattern.  I added red piping down the CF and on the collar.  I made two beautiful, perfect piped pockets, but when I basted them to the jacket, I didn't like them so off they came.   The pattern didn't call for a lining, but I prefer it lined.  Lining is red.

The major change to the pattern was shortening the length of the collar.  The original collar ends at the finished edge of the jacket, so thatt it can be worn standing up.  Here's how it actually should look:

But, I would never wear the collar up like that, and making it this way, if  the collar is worn down, the two ends of the collar overlap quite a bit.   Instead, I made the collar edges stop at CF.  The CF to the finished edge of the jacket is 2"--quite an extension.  I took 4" off the CB of the collar.  It worked out well, and the collar lays nicely now. 

I'll wear that jacket over a long-sleeve red Tshirt, which I made today.  I'll get a pic wearing it when I get the snaps finished.  This makes a nice layering piece, and would be a good transitional garment in between seasons.

More later. 

My Little Golden Book

Yesterday, I read with interest Phyllis's post about SusanKhalje,  her new website, and that she will be offering her Bridal Couture book on CD soon.

Phyllis commented about the price of this book on Amazon.  I remember when that book first hit the bookshelves, but I never bought it.  My curiousity got the best of me, and I checked the price of the book on Amazon-$93.00.  Then, I checked on Ebay and found one copy for, get this--$140.00! 

Today, I was out and about and stopped in Habermans to look for something.  As I passed the books, I saw one copy of "Bridal Couture".  I picked it up and looked at the price-$29.95.  Now, I am not a fool.  I bought that book in a split second!

If you find a copy , resonably priced, you may want to buy it because obviously, it is a Golden Book now!

Giveaway and Newsletter

Claire hs a nice giveway on her blog.  And, even better, she is going to publish a FREE newsletter.  If you're not familiar with her sewing, you are missing out on some spectacular stuff.  I'm sure her newsletters will have some interesting subjects.

So, if you want to read what she has to say, run over to her blog.  There's a link in her recent post to sign up for the newsletter and the giveaway.  But, the giveaway runs until tomorrow (Monday) afternoon only.  Hurry!

Can You See It?

Fortunately, mouth wounds heal rather quickly.  My lip is sore and has a bump on it, but is definitely getting better.

I've been working on the piping for my jacket.  I covered rat-tail cord with red satin.  To keep the bias satin strips and slippery cord from going wonky on me, I hand-basted every step.  It takes some time, but that's fine.  I'm almost finished  binding  two pockets, one CF and collar sections.

There are several outside corners to apply cording.  I need to be able to see up close and personal at the corners when I machine sew the binding.  I must get a pair of magnifying headgear that's recently been talked about among some blogs.  I do have a lamp with a magnifier.  And, I have this really great attachment for my sewing machine.

The magnifier is specific to this Bernina machine.   It has saved me pulling my hair out many times.  Love it! 

Sometimes, we need to see the bigger picture! 

I've Been Searchin'

Yesterday, I cut out the McCall jacket.  This particular houndstooth is small-scale, maybe 1/4".  It's one of those fabrics that causes your eyes to cross when you stare at it.  There's no way I could eyeball the stripes to line up pattern pieces.  So, I used some colored transparent tape, and taped a horizontal line.

I marked a horizontal line across the pattern at the underarm so I could line it up with the tape on the fabric.  

I lined the CF and CB with a vertical stripe.  And all was well.  Until today.

This morning, I decided to re-draft the facings.  I fused Pam's Pro-Weft interfacing, which is rapidly becomming my favorite all-around fusible. 

This jacket is so easy that a beginner could sew it.  That is, unless you make it complicated, which I seem to be doing.  I wanted patch pockets on both fronts.  I looked through an old book by Claire Schaefer and found exactly what I was looking for.

The pockets will be piped in red satin, left over from the SantaPurse.  I went to the cabinet where a roll of rat-tail cord is kept.  It's been in that cabinet for years.  But it's not there today.  I pulled everything out, looking through every box.  No cord.   Bah!  While searching, I had my hand on a shelf, and put too much weight on it, when ker-plunk the shelf went down and me with it.  I busted my lip.

I gave up the search and made a sample of the piping without a  filler cord.

While walking the "dreadmill" later, and thinking about that rat-tail, I went to a storage closet where there's a bin or two of sewing projects, and there was the cord.  Yay! 

Me and my disfigured lip will try again tomorrow to start sewing this jacket. 

Have You Ever Wondered---

You see a to-die-for fabric.  Can't possibly leave the store without it.  Without a specific pattern in mind, how much to buy?  These wonderful, little plastic cards take away the guesswork.

Gwen, of After the Dress, has manufactured these credit-card size jewels after gathering tons and tons of information on her blog.  She calculated yardage for specific garment types, from women's sizes 6-22.  There are calculations for dresses, jackets, shirts, coats, skirts and pants.  Each card refers to a specfic garment type.  For instance, one card deals with dresses.  On the back of that card are drawings of dresses that could be made from the amount of fabric calculated on the front of the card.

I'm sure it took an amazing amount of time to accumulate all that data.  She's done a terrific job on these little cards, which are small enough to slip into a pocket or handbag.  They would make a wonderful gift for yourself or a sewing friend. These are available at:  http://gwynhug.com/

I was able to spend some time in my sewing room today.  I made a muslin of McCall 5941. 

Mine will be a hip-length version, made in black/white houndstooth.  I made a change to the pattern.  The underarm is actually made like a kimono sleeve--squared off in that area, with the underarm seam left open.  Because I am adding a lining to this unlined jacket, I believe it will be easier to insert lining if the underarm is completely sewn.  I simply drew a curve at the underarm, making it a dolman sleeve.

Also, I'm going to add red piping to the collar, and down the front.  The front facing is cut-on.  I'm making the facing separate, so I can pipe the edge.  And, I made a lining pattern.  Tomorrow, I intend to cut and start sewing.  The sky has opened up and snow is falling.  It will be a good day to sew.

                                                             

7 Little Patterns

--made their way into my basket during the pattern sale at Jos.  It's difficult to pass up a pattern sale.  I don't even try anymore.

A Chanel style jacket pattern, should I ever decide to hop on the Chanel band-wagon.  I'm totally too late for the sew-along.  A Marcy Tilton jacket pattern that Claire made.  She posted a tutorial on how to adjust this pattern in the chest area.  She is marvelous!  I have plans for this jacket.

A girl can't have too many shirt patterns.  And a jacket that ties in the front.  I have the perfect crinkled fabric for it.

I love a jean jacket.  This one is by Palmer/Pletsch, and is semi-fitted, rather than boxy, like most jeans jackets are.  Another Palmer/Pletsch jacket pattern that has simple lines and always in style.

And finally, this suit by Bagley Mishka.  I like their designs.  This jacket is timeless and perfect for spring.

I didn't get any spring patterns, as some of you did.  There weren't any in the cabinets, or I would have.  They will wait for another sale, another time.  Until then, I have plenty to keep me busy!

It's Sew Fitting !!

I bought this book.

I love it.

It is mine.

Happy New Year!

On the Riveria

I love my Hot Patterns Riveria Jacket.  It's casual and easy to wear, comfortable.

The review is here.

The pattern calls for a stable knit, but I used a gray striped, loosely woven wool, which I bought for 50 cents at one of my sewing clubs.  Because the jacket is boxy and not closely fitted, using a woven fabric worked out just fine.  The wool did require a lining.  I had this printed lining in my stash that I got off the grab table at another sewing guild.

The buttons were in my stash as well, so this jacket was basically a freebie. 

I did make a few changes to the pattern.  I added hem allowances and ommited the hem facings.  Because I didn't want to disrupt the stripe, I cut the back on the fold, instead of in two pieces as the pattern dictates.  The sleeves are two-pieced, but again, I made  them in one piece, so the stripe wouldn't be interrupted.  I added cuffs to the sleeves and ommited the sleeve facings.

I used a traditional tailored collar/lapel technique instead of going by the instructions.  It's not that "an old dog cannot learn new tricks" but I liked my old way better!  I will make this jacket again, probably in the spring.

I whacked and stacked 7 T-shirts, and sewed 3 of them.

The one in the center is brick red, and I will wear it under the Riveria jacket.

There are 4 Ts waiting to be sewn, as I have a few minutes.  That's something I can sew when I don't have to think.  I can make them in my sleep.  But, my next real project is this jacket,  that I want to make out of black/white houndstooth wool.

                                                         

I'll make the hip-length version, and although it's supposed to be an unlined jacket, I am going to line it in red.  A pattern, after all, is just a "suggestion".

Happy New Year to everyone.  May 2010 be your best sewing year ever!

TSO Anyone?

I finished my jacket yesterday.  Also, I cut out 7 Tshirts, and sewed 3 of them.   Pictures later this week.

Today, I'm not sewing.  This is what I'm doing:

It's become a tradition that me and my husband, daughter and son-in-law go to the Trans-Siberian Orchestra for their annual Christmas concert.   We'll be among 10,000 loud, rocking fans, playing imaginary guitars to the "rock opera" music and watching the laser light show, complete with pyro-technics.  It is awesome.

Sewing resumes in a couple of days. 

Progress on my Hot Pattern

I got unexpected sewing time over the weekend.  I thoroughly enjoyed myself.  Here is where I am on the Riveria Boulevard jacket.

Next, I have to make a lining pattern.  This fabric definitely needs lining, because it's very scratchy.  I"m happy how it's turning out so far.  Famous Last Words.  I need a vibrant color top to go under it--maybe hot pink or bright coral.  I have to attach the collar,make the lining, insert lining and outer collar and attach cuffs.  I'll get sewing time later in the week.

Here's a photo of one of my famous T-Shirts.  The same pattern I've made since 1974 or so.

The thing is--it fits.  I cannot buy a T that fits. I like the shoulder seams to be at the shoulder, not hanging down.  I'm small(er) on the top, big on the bottom, so anything I find in RTW that fits on the top is too tight on the rear. This is my basic outfit.  For my Elegant Lifestyle.

Tomorrow, I go to the beauty shop to get some red in my hair.  Me and Flo, my new companion, the "floater" who took residence in my vision!