Wednesday, January 9, 2013

Sure Fit Pants Alteration

When I last worked on my SureFitPants,  the back leg was wider than I wanted.  I had pinned a 3/8" tuck down the center of the back legs from the ankle to the hip, which took out 3/4" of fabric.  The pant hung much nicer, so I want to take that out of the pattern.  Here's what I've done.

The grain-line on the pattern ran right down the center of the back leg.  I drew a 3/8" line on either side of that grain-line  which is same as the tuck I made on the trial pants.  I split the pattern on the grain-line from the ankle to the waist.

Next, I overlapped the pattern, matching the 3/8" lines, beginning a the ankle.  The overlap begins to taper  as it nears the waist.

I've taken out 3/4" in the back leg.  Doing this also removes a smidge in the hip and waist.  But, I have 1" seam allowances all around the pattern.  If needed, I have plenty of seam allowance to let out.

Palmer/Pletsch pant patterns have a 1" seam allowance all the way around the pattern--except for the crotch.  That makes it easier to drape the pant on yourself.  That method has always worked well for me, so I continue to put those wide seam allowances on most patterns.

Now that's done and brown fabric is ironed, ready to cut.  Tomorrow.

17 Talk to me:

Diana said...

Hi Gwen. I've saved many a garment by adding one inch at the side seams. I've never added it to any other location though but it does make sense though.

Ann said...

I am sure the 1" seam allowances will save the day. Can hardly wait to see them

Sharon said...

Thank you for showing this adjustment it had me intrigued. Looking forward to seeing your new pants.

Faye Lewis said...

That adjustment is just basically the same as I use when removing sleeve cap ease except you start at the top of the sleeve and taper at the wrist. I'll have to remember what you illustrated for future use.

House of Pinheiro said...

Thanks for sharing x

mssewcrazy said...

I've just made some pj pants that I think I am going to try this pattern alteration on the next use of the pattern. I am getting much more fearless in slashing tissue and taping. Thanks for showing the pants fitting in progress. I think you are going to be pleased with your pattern work.

Corrine said...

I also do the 1 inch seam allowance on side seams for alteration purpose. I learned this from a friends Mother. She made all of her daughters clothes. She made her maternity clothes and post-maternity clothes. She told me that she learned to do the 1 inch seam after friend had her baby, that way she could take them in as her weight returned to normal post-baby. Used it ever since, about 35 years actually. Unfortunately my pre-baby weight never returned!

Patty said...

Thanks for posting your alteration steps along the way. I need to remember to use those 1 inch seam allowances!

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