Monday, April 5, 2010

Trench Coat-the Beginning

I'm really late starting a spring Trench Coat.  By the time I get it finished, I won't need it! 

I'm making S4084, which I believe is discontinued.

The fabric is aqua denim.  Lining is a lighter aqua.  There will be lots of white top-stitching, and white buttons.  Silver D-rings hanging from the yokes, silver buckle.

I made two muslins to get the fit correct.  There was some folds at the back armsythe, which I determined to be a result of sloping shoulders.  Now, I know I have sloped shoulders.  I've known it for quite some time.  I don't know why it's so hard to admit it to myself.  I can say my behind is as big as Wal-Mart, but I always have trouble believing the shoulder problem!

To solve the shoulder delima, I lowered the shoulder seam at the armsythe  1/2", tapering to the original line at the neck.  Then, I lowered the armsythe at the side seam 1/2".  Add a shoulder pad, and that area fits like a glove. 

I wanted some fullness from the waistline down, so I slashed/spread the pattern in a couple of places, front and back, from the hemline to the waist, adding 8" to the front and back at the hem.  Now it has an A-line silhouette instead of being straight. 

I've done some other fiddling in preparation of sewing.  Practiced bound buttonholes, and the jury is still out about those.  I made some samples of top-stitching, which is turning out to be troublesome on that bull denim.  In one direction, the stitches are beautiful.  But, when stitching across the grain, the stitches look funky because of the way the needle hits the twill weave.  I get the best result in both directions by using a stretch straight stitch (two stitches forward, one backward).  That will be time-consuming, but it's the best method I've achieved so far.

I'll be interfacing the entire coat front with knit interfacing.  It's lightweight, so hopefully the coat won't be able to stand on it's own!

And, that's where I am to date.  More to come, as I progress.

Make it a good week! 


27 Talk to me:

Carol said...

I've been thinking about a trench coat, too. It will do me all winter here in this climate. What fabric are you using?

JoanneM said...

I adore this trench pattern . Can't wait to see it!

Aminat said...

I have one on my radar as well, but I have been lazy after the March marathon.... Can't wait to seeing the final project. Have fun

Lynn said...

I can't wait to see it. I've got this pattern too.

Kristine said...

Never too late, it's Michigan silly! We'll be freezing by the end of the week, don't worry!!!

The Sewing Loft said...

I am looking forward to seeing the finished trench coat. I know it will come out beautifully.

Barb

Sue said...

The color is beautiful and the style is lovely. Can't wait to see it finished.

Uta said...

Such a pretty color, perfect for spring! I'd love to make a trenchcoat sometime; I'm looking forward to seeing your progress on this!

Bunny said...

Sounds like you are on top of everything with your trench. The color is so pretty. I am anxious to see how your topstitching works. It never would have occurred to me to try that stitch. Brilliant!
What is it about shoulders? I found it hard to believe gravity was taking a toll on my dancer's posture but it sure has. Sloping it is and just have to alter accordingly. I used that same method with my CJ muslin.

Nancy K said...

Looking forward to seeing your version. I keep looking for the perfect pattern, and this is in my stash, so I am interested in seeing your version. I especially like the a line shape you are using, which is what I am planning too.

Toocutedobs said...

I talked to my mom about the muslin making and she (74 years old) says we are wasting our time. If she sewed a garment she had to make it fit--period, bottom line. And she is right, she did, I was there. She never threw away a garment, no UFO, etc. So muslin making is a luxury we have I guess.

I am glad to hear that you are using a denim and look forward to photos. I purchased 8 yards of Vera Wang cotton canvas with a coat in mind. Now I will have someone to follow--and you know I need the help!

Julia said...

This coat is going to be awesome. I love, love, love the color!!!

Stash said...

I am really looking forward to seeing this. My favorite jeans are aqua denim and would I ever love a trench out of that fabric! Your plan sounds fantastic and with all your great prep, I know it is going to be a wonderful trench. ;-)

sewstorebought said...

I keep looking at the coat fabrics in the fabric store but then I chicken out. I look forward to seeing how this comes along. It sounds like you are set up nice with your practice muslins and have thought through a lot of it. Good luck!

Eugenia said...

Great pattern - I love the classic trench coat style. Here in London we need a one of these all year round! Sounds like yours is coming along very nicely.

Sheila said...

Looking forward to progress pics and you chose a beautiful color for your jacket.

Sister said...

Can't wait to see it - sounds like you know exactly what you're doing!

Susan Fogel said...

What a perfect color for a trench coat.
I started thinking I needed to have a trench coat. then I remembered I live on the beach in Mexico!
Can't wait to see it finished!

j.kaori said...

I like that pattern --- I didn't know it was discontinued. Can't wait to see the finished product!

Linda T said...

Sounds great! I'm too chicken to try a trench.

Little Sewing Alcove said...

Can't wait to see it finished...love the color! Like our weather, you'll be able to wear it...

Sew Passionista said...

Wow Gwen. You really prepare well. This is the pattern I used for my brown linen trench and My DD's red one. It's a great pattern really.
Bull denim is a great choice for this . Interesting about the top-stitching! I'm planning a pair of jeans with white bull denim so I'll keep it in mind.
I have sloped shoulders and it was Sandra Betzina who pointed it out to me.Once I learned what to do .I hardly have to use shoulder pads anymore. My solution is to start at the neck at size 12 and slope down to size 8 at the shoulder ,then to lower the under arm by 1/4 " and that works great for me.
Thanks Gwen for always looking in on my projects. I'll be enthusiastically watching your progress on this coat

Heather said...

Oh, that is one of my most favorite colors! i can't wait to see it made up!

Cennetta said...

Your opening line made me chuckle. Because on Sunday afternoon I starting working on a Spring coat. As I was cutting it out, I did think, "Maybe I'll wear it in September. lol I have this pattern too and hope to make it up one day.
Happy Sewing!
C

Elle said...

I never could get those clover bias tape gadgets to work. Can't wait to see your trench coat!

Renae said...

I'm glad to see that I am not alone in my trench coat endeavor. Like you, by the time I finish mine it will be FAR too hot to wear. Can't wait to see yours!

sdBev said...

Gwen

I love the trench coat. It's so inspiring. I've purchased a yellow water proof fabric to make a raincoat but I want trench coat styling.

BTW I thought I had sloping shoulders and for years made the sloping shoulder adjustment. Last year, while setting up my dressform, I discovered I have narrow shoulders. Once I adjust for narrow shoulders not only do the shoulders fit, they are not sloped and the upper chest of my garments also fit well. I don't know you well enough to suggest that might be your issue. As much as I do know of you, I'm inclined to belive that sloped shoulders is more likely to be your issue and you've correct it. It's just that it is interesting to me to compare the final solutions for what seems like, but is not the same source of discrepancy. Did that make sense?

Well ignore it then. Just know that I'm drooling over your coat.

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